There is a sentence I hear in my consulting room almost every day. "My weight hasn't changed, but my face keeps sliding downward." It usually comes with a guess attached: "The skin has stretched, hasn't it?"

No. In most cases the skin has not stretched at all. What has happened is that the anchor points holding the face in place, deep beneath the skin, have loosened. Those anchors are the retaining ligaments. The canvas, your skin, is still perfectly usable; it is the grip holding it that has slackened, so the whole face settles downward. At its root, sagging is that simple.

A face does not sag because it has stretched. It settles because the grip that held it has loosened.

Why does it always flow downward?

The words people use for sagging are strikingly similar: "heavy", "sliding", "settled". Every one of them points downward, and that direction is the clue. When something flows downward, a force that used to hold it up has weakened.

Picture the curtain at a window. It hangs straight not because the fabric is stiff, but because a row of hooks along the top holds it at even intervals. What happens when two or three hooks come loose? The fabric is perfectly fine, yet that section droops and the folds gather at the bottom. No amount of ironing will fix it. The only remedy is to put the hooks back.

The face is built the same way. Retaining ligaments are bundles of fibre that run from the bone to the skin and hold the facial tissue in place, gripping it at points all over the face like those curtain hooks. When we are young these anchors are taut, and the face seems to sit high on its own. As they loosen one by one, the tissue is pushed downward from wherever the grip has weakened, and that is the moment we call "sagging". These are the very guy-lines I compared to a tent in my last column.

The three anchors that hold the face

There are anchor points across the face, but three matter most for sagging: the zygomatic, the mandibular and the orbicularis. The names are unfamiliar, but the places are not: the cheekbone, the jaw and the area around the eye. The order in which they loosen can even become the order in which a face begins to look older.

AnchorWhat it holdsWhat you see when it loosens
Zygomatic (cheekbone) ligamentUnder the cheekbone, the mid-faceThe area under the cheekbone hollows and the middle of the cheek drops
Mandibular (jaw) ligamentThe jawlineThe jawline blurs and jowls form beside the mouth
Orbicularis (eye area) ligamentBeneath the eyeThe under-eye area loosens and the tear trough deepens

Do you notice something? A hollow under the cheekbone, a blurred jawline and a sagging under-eye are not three separate problems. They are one cause, loosened anchor points, showing up differently in each area. In the skin architecture view we use, reading the skin as a building of several layers rather than a single sheet, these anchors belong to the lowest layer, the framework. When the framework tilts, every layer above it follows.

Seeing the causes as one rather than dividing them by area is where every sagging consultation begins. In the corridor of the Obliv Seoul Origin clinic.
Seeing the causes as one rather than dividing them by area is where every sagging consultation begins. In the corridor of the Obliv Seoul Origin clinic.

"Wait, that's me": a five-question self-check

The questions below are drawn from what I actually hear in the consulting room. Take one look in the mirror and see whether any of them apply to you.

Does this sound familiar?The anchor it points to
1. You have not gained weight or lost sleep, yet the whole face looks heavy and drawn downwardThe anchors in general
2. The area under the cheekbone looks hollow and the middle of the cheek seems to have droppedZygomatic (cheekbone) ligament
3. The jawline has blurred and jowls are starting to form beside the mouthMandibular (jaw) ligament
4. The under-eye area has loosened and the tear trough is deeper than beforeOrbicularis (eye area) ligament
5. You look after your skin consistently, yet the sagging has not changedPossibly the framework (the anchors), not the surface

What matters is not how many you ticked but which ones. Questions 2, 3 and 4 each point to a different anchor. And if you ticked question 5, it may be time to consider that the cause of your sagging is not the surface of the skin. This check is only a hint, of course. How far each anchor has loosened can only be judged by touch, not by sight; their positions differ subtly from person to person and even shift between sitting and lying down.

So why not simply pull the skin?

A natural thought follows. Whatever the cause, could we not just pull the drooping part back up? No. Think again of the curtain with the missing hooks. Tug at the fabric all you like: where the hook is gone, the curtain still will not hang. Putting the hook back comes first. The face is no different. Leave the loosened anchors as they are and work only on the surface, and the root of the sagging stays exactly where it was.

That is why we treat sagging as something to rebuild rather than something to pull. Restoring tension at the loosened anchors so that the tissue returns to where it belongs: that is the starting point of retaining ligament lifting. Rather than hauling tissue upward, it gives the face back the lifting force it always had. I set out the principle with a single tent in my last column, so this column stops at the cause.

What makes a curtain hang straight is not the hand pulling the fabric but the hook put back in place. A face is no different.

The first question in my examination is not "where has it sagged?" but "where has it loosened?" The answer comes from the fingertips, not the eyes.
The first question in my examination is not "where has it sagged?" but "where has it loosened?" The answer comes from the fingertips, not the eyes.

Change the question and you see it differently

Sagging setting in does not mean the skin has failed. The grip that held it has simply loosened a little, which is why pinning down the cause comes before any treatment. It is also why every sagging consultation at Obliv Seoul Origin starts from the question "which anchor point has loosened?"

The next time you stand in front of the mirror and think "where has it stretched?", try shifting the question slightly, to "where has it loosened?" That small change turns sagging from a vague worry into a change with a reason behind it, and once you know the reason, the worry tends to shrink. In the next column I will pick up the thread with wallpaper and framework: why a face can sag even when you look after your skin diligently.