In the last column I described why body filler follows different rules from face filler, and how the product, the anaesthetic and the instruments all change as the volume grows. Those are the conditions that have to be laid down underneath the treatment.

Once they are in place, one question remains. So what are we building? The moment a consultation opens with "how many cc shall we do?", the conversation that day organises itself around a number rather than a shape.

Volume is not the goal; it is the consequence. Settle the shape and the amount required follows on its own.

The areas where "a little here, a little there" does not work

Face filler is largely a matter of fine distribution. Zero point three here, zero point five there, blended so the whole thing joins up smoothly. A face is small in area with closely packed contours, so it has to be handled that way to look continuous.

The body is a different proposition. A single shoulder is a conversation about 15 to 20cc. Scatter that amount across many points the way you would on a face and what happens? The volume certainly increases, but the angle never appears. Everything thickens slightly, and the line that should fall straight from the end of the shoulder simply does not emerge.

When someone tells me in clinic that they have had a fair amount of filler and yet the line is not there, my first question is not about the quantity. It is what shape was being built, and where. Often the answer is not clear. Increase the volume while the target stays vague and the result moves toward heaviness rather than definition.

Drawing the target silhouette first

So I begin body consultations with shape. Where would you like the end of the shoulder to fall? How much do you want the collarbone to show? How far up the arm should the line stay straight before you feel it looks right? Only once that picture is settled does the arithmetic of how much it takes to build it begin.

Put another way, the same material can be used in two quite different ways.

AspectFace-style approachBody-style approach
Opening questionWhere and how much to distributeWhat shape are we building
Working unitFine increments of 0.3 to 0.5ccA mass that fills a target shape
Reference pointFill what has hollowedDecide the outermost point
Position for checkingSymmetry while lying downThe whole silhouette seated or standing
When volume is settledAt the outsetAfter the shape is decided

The last row is what I most want to convey here. Decide the volume first and the treatment becomes an exercise in using it up somehow. Decide the shape first and it becomes an exercise in using only what that shape requires. A single question of order changes the character of the whole procedure.

Before deciding where and how much, we decide what is being built. You need the picture before you can calculate the amount.
Before deciding where and how much, we decide what is being built. You need the picture before you can calculate the amount.

Pushing out the outermost point — the angle of a shoulder

The shoulder makes this easy to see. What people call a straight, angular shoulder is not a shape produced by thickening the whole shoulder. It appears when one outermost point is clearly established, so that the line falling from that point to the arm reads as straight.

Shoulder filler is therefore closer to deciding where that outer point should sit and building it up than to spreading material broadly. There is something of the thinking used in implant surgery in it: fix the target point you intend to push out to, then fill what is needed to reach it.

When volume goes in without that point being settled, the result usually goes one of two ways. Either no angle forms, or the wrong spot becomes prominent and the shoulder looks raised instead. Neither is solved by adding more. Of course, the position of the shoulder blade and the way the muscle attaches differ from person to person, so where that point falls is something to be determined by examination.

Why a line settled lying down changes when you stand

Even with all of that settled, one thing remains: the position in which the work is done. It sounds like a small matter, and it decides a surprising amount.

Lie down and soft tissue spreads sideways with gravity. The shoulder, the arm, the area around the collarbone, all of it. You can build something you are satisfied with, symmetry and all, and the moment the person stands the tissue returns to where it belongs and the shape changes. The version seen lying down is also a version nobody sees in daily life.

The positions in which we actually look at our own bodies are seated and standing: in front of a mirror, dressed, with gravity acting. So body filler is carried out seated. You have to be able to keep checking from that angle while you work.

A line built lying down looks its best lying down. The difficulty is that nobody checks the mirror in that position.

The time spent looking in the mirror together is the treatment

That is why we look in the mirror during the procedure. Rather than judging on my own whether the shape has come out well, I work through it looking at the same view as the person who will see that body every day. Whether to build a little more here, or whether this is already enough, gets said out loud at the time.

Here are the mismatches I meet most often in clinic.

A common assumptionIn practice
More cc gives a better lineWithout a target point, more volume only reads as heavier
Distributing widely, as on a face, looks naturalOn a body the shape blurs and the angle disappears
Lying down allows more precisionIt has to be built in the position it will be seen in
Design is a brief step before the treatmentAdjusting it at the mirror is the treatment itself

The last row is the point of this column. Design is not a short preliminary attached to the front of the procedure; it runs the whole length of it. Whether shape was discussed at any length in the consultation, and whether you can check as it is being built, are things you can simply ask about.

We look in the mirror together as we work. It has to be checked through the eyes of the person who will see that line every day.
We look in the mirror together as we work. It has to be checked through the eyes of the person who will see that line every day.

If you are looking into body filler, I would suggest changing the opening question from "how many cc will I need?" to "what shape can be built here?" How specific the answer is tells you most of what you need to know about that consultation.

That said, sometimes something has to be cleared away before a shape can be drawn at all. Build in exactly the right place and the line still will not show if thick fat is lying over it. In the next column I will explain why I do not begin by recommending filler, and what should be dealt with first in each area.